PLACES / HOLIDAYS
By Aliye Arif
By Aliye Arif
Discerning travellers seeking
a stimulating holiday to explore the rich history and fascinating landscape of
Turkey need look no further than
Cappadocia. Located in central Anatolia, this is a geological wonderland of lunar-like
rock formations, the result of the downward erosion of layers of volcanic ash
deposited millions of years ago. Natural cone formations smoothed by the
elements are now known as fairy chimneys, which lead to caves and labyrinths
below ground. See them silently at dawn from a balloon gondola, with a partner
by your side, for maximum effect.
History
Cappadocia was ruled by the Hattis in the late Bronze Age, then Hittites,
Phrygians, Persians, Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks, and Ottomans, who were drawn
by to the region’s fertile plains and strategic importance to key trade routes,
such as the illustrious Silk Road. These diverse races ensured that a myriad of
historical and cultural influences were left behind.
The location’s attractiveness meant the region was also frequently under
attack. It prompted local inhabitants, including the early Christians fleeing Roman
persecution, to create living spaces from Cappadocia’s natural caverns whose
entrances could be easily concealed from invading forces. In time, these
troglodytic dwellings became moulded by men into subterranean cities with homes,
churches, water supplies, and incredible Byzantine frescoes.
Lie of the land
The natural rock citadel of Uçhisar is the tallest point in Cappadocia,
visible for a great distance from the region's other towns such as Ürgüp (good
nightlife) and Avanos, famed for its pottery. The underground cities of
Kaymaklı and Derinkuyu contain vast multi-levels of rooms and passageways that
will leave you feeling like you're lost in a huge historical labyrinth. Derinkuyu
for example was re-opened to the public in 1969 and is large enough to shelter
20,000 people and their livestock. Newly restored is the Monastery of St Nicholas
located in Mustafapaşa. Other areas worth a trek are the Ihlara Valley and
Monastery Valley. It’s good to travel around on foot, either as part of a tour
or with an experienced private guide, who can help you to discover historical
gems that are off the beaten track.
Göreme National Park and
Open-Air Museum
Göreme is Cappadocia’s centre of tourism, with the entire area a UNESCO
World Heritage site. The town is a short 20-minute walk (1 mile) to the Göreme
Open-Air Museum situated in Göreme Valley, where you can see the region's richest
collection of painted cave-churches. These were carved from the soft volcanic
stone by medieval orthodox Christian monks (1000-1200 AD) who then decorated
them with elaborate Byzantine frescoes.
Hot-air ballooning
Thrill-seekers can appreciate Cappadocia’s natural wonders and aesthetic elegance by hot air balloon.
There are a half-dozen firms operating out of Göreme daily. Start times are
early, around 4.30am, and April through to October are generally the best times
to fly, with a greater chance of cancellation at other times of the year due to
bad weather.
Beyond the caves
If walking is too arduous, see Cappadocia on horseback. A 2-hour safari
from Göreme will set you back €40. Amongst the striking scenery, you can also
squeeze in a romantic gondola ride in the Red River or a jeep safari between
the Fairy Chimney Valleys. Wine-making is said to go back 7,000 years and the
region boasts excellent grapes. A modern and popular winery to visit is
Turasan, where you can sample a range of quality wines at great prices. Local
crafts are also in abundance: Soğanlı village is where the famous handmade
wooden dolls of Cappadocia are produced. Visit Avanos to pick up terracotta
pottery – their methods date back to the Neolithic age. The handmade Turkish
rugs are highly sought-after for their brilliant attention to detail.
Accommodation
First-time visitors are in for a unique treat when it comes to staying
over in Cappadocia, which is now teeming with boutique hotels and guest houses.
Many, such as the luxurious Hezen Cave Hotel (pictured) and the smaller, family-run Star
Cave Hotel are carved directly out of natural rock. They have been carefully
adapted and include all the mod-cons, comforts and style of any other hotel,
while offering a stunning environment to rest and great panoramic views of the
surrounding areas. For those in need of more conventional accommodation, many
Ottoman-era mansions in the region are being restored and turned into hotels
and inns (pansions).
Cappadocia’s continental climate means hot dry summers and cold snowy
winters. Rainfall is sparse and the region is largely semi-arid. Nearest
airport: Nevşehir.
Tour operators:
Main photo courtesy of Turkey Tourism UK Office, hot air balloon image by Arda Cakır.
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