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| Built by the Ottomans, the Büyük Han / Big Inn is located in the heart of the old city |
PLACES / HOLIDAYS
Nicosia (Lefkoşa in Turkish) is the capital of both the TRNC and South
Cyprus. The city has been divided since the outbreak of the Cyprus Conflict in
December 1963, although the opening of the borders in April 2003 has enabled
greater interaction between the two sides. There are now three crossing points:
Ledra Palace, which has restaurants and the Home for Co-Operation in the buffer
zone, and Ledra Street – both suitable for pedestrians, and the Metehan/Ayios
Dometios checkpoint for vehicles.
A thriving and vibrant city, North Nicosia is small by international
standards with a population of just over 61,000. The Old City
History
Many civilisations have left their mark on Lefkoşa, which traces its
roots back to the Early Bronze Age of 2,500 BC. A millennium later Ledra, in
the southwest of today’s city, was established as one of the 12 kingdoms by the
Achaeans after the end of the Trojan War. Around 647 AD, Arab coastal raids
prompted the Byzantines to shift their centre of operation from Salamis to
Lefkoşa, formally making it their capital in 965AD.
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| Girne Gate forms the entrance to Old Nicosia |
The walls of the Old City were begun in the Lusignan Period. The Venetians
then added newer, thicker fortifications in the sixteenth century, which remain
to this day. There are three gates through the walls: Girne (Kyrenia) in the North, and Baf (Paphos) and Mağusa (Famagusta)
both in South Nicosia. The Ottomans laid siege to the island in 1571 and built
many landmark buildings in the capital.
The city was divided into two ethnic zones a few days after Greek
Cypriots started to attack Turkish Cypriots in 1963. Mark Hobden, a British RAF
Captain, stepped in to help separate the warring factions, famously drawing a
line on a city map with a green marker. The war of 1974 saw the Green Line
extend the full width of the island, creating a 180km-long buffer zone. One of
the narrowest points is in the capital, just 3 metres wide; the area is dubbed Spear
Alley as soldiers on either side can virtually poke each other.
Sites
Since 1989, the TRNC authorities have set about restoring the Old City,
aided by UN and, more recently, EU funding. Take a free guided tour from Girne Gate to see all the historical
sites, of which just a few are mentioned below.
Immediately after the gate is the Mevlevi Tekki – home of Sufism in
Cyprus. Built in the seventeenth century, it is now a museum with annual
performance from whirling dervishes. Further along is the Sarayönü or Atatürk Square with its Venetian Column opposite the
main Lefkoşa courts.
In the heart of the Old City is the impressive Büyük Han (Big Inn), built by the Ottomans for travellers. Today
its rooms have been leased to artists and craftspeople who exhibit and sell
traditional and contemporary arts and crafts, including hand-woven straw
baskets, silk and lacework. There’s also a restaurant: perfect for lunch or
dinner.
Take a bath in the nearby Büyük
Hamam (Great Turkish Bath) on İrfan Bey Street. Built on the ruins of a 14th
century church, the hamam is open for
use from Tuesday to Sunday, alternating between men’s and women’s days, with
the building open to viewing by tourists in the evening.
The Turkish Cypriot capital boasts two fine examples of Gothic
cathedrals, both converted into mosques when the Ottomans arrived: St. Sophia
Cathedral/Selimiye Mosque and St. Catherine Cathedral/Haydarpaşa Mosque.
Selimiye is used as a place of worship today, but was formerly Cyprus’ premier
church where the coronation ceremony of Lusignan kings was performed. Six days
after conquering the city, the Ottomans adapted the building and held their
first Friday prayers on 15 September 1571. The following year two 49m-tall
minarets were added by order of Sultan Selim II.
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| Cypriots will regularly offer you home-made macun: this is turunç (bitter orange) variety |
Haydarpaşa is now a museum and exhibition space. The building celebrates
the flamboyant Gothic style of southern France, and is adorned with gargoyles
and carvings of the Lusignan coats of arms, and other typically Gothic
decorative features.
From there, stroll through the backstreets of the renovated Arabahmet
district with its distinctive town houses. One is the Dervish Pasha Mansion,
which now doubles as the Ethnographic Musuem. The previous owner was the editor
of the island’s first Turkish newspaper, Zaman, published between 1891 and
1900.
Shopping
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| Handicrafts such as baskets are popular gifts |
For trinkets, macun
(traditional Cypriot dessert of preserved fruit), Turkish delight, spices, nuts and fresh fruit and vegetables,
visit the Bandabuliya (Municipality
Market), a small indoor bazaar in the
Old City. Nearby is the Arasta district, full of clothing and gift shops, as
well as access to South Nicosia via the Ledra Street crossing: make sure you
take your British passport with you. For those after a contemporary shopping
experience, visit Dereboyu (Mehmet Akif Street) – the TRNC’s Oxford Street.
Supermarkets such as Lemar will help you stock up on your Cyprus staples of hellim cheese and Turkish coffee.
Dining out
Turkish Cypriots love to eat and there is a great choice of eateries in Lefkoşa.
For Cypriot cuisine, visit Hamur (Turkish for ‘dough’) by the Ledra Palace
crossing. Its sweet and savoury börek (pastry), mantı and pirohu (Turkish and Cypriot
styles of ravioli) are delicious. A short distance away is Nenemin Evi (My
Nan’s House) serving traditional dishes, such as molehiya (green leaves) and kolakas
(similar to a yam).
Kebab lovers should check out Anibal – a simple restaurant in the Çağlayan
district that’s popular with the locals. For an upmarket kebab experience,
visit Niazi’s (two branches: Dereboyu and Kermiya) or Biyer on Dereboyu, which
serves both charcoal-grilled meat and fish dishes.
For contemporary cuisine and settings, there’s Sabor (Spanish) opposite
the Selimiye Mosque, or Cadde de Passport (mixed global) on Dereboyu, and Eziç
Lefkoşa (chicken heaven), which also boasts a garden. Enjoy dessert at the Grand
Mardo Ice Cream Parlour and Caramel, renowned for its cakes and chocolate.
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| Turkish Cypriots love their coffee. Photo by Celyan Cokgun |
One of the favourite local pastimes is drinking Turkish coffee.
Introduced to the island by the Ottomans, it is an integral part of Cypriot
culture. One of its oldest and most famous brands is Özerlat, now also
available in the UK. In the early 1900s, Derviş Tahmis Özerlat opened the capital’s
first Cypriot coffee shop on Ermou Street in South Nicosia. The family has been
at the forefront of innovations ever since, introducing electric grinding, and
new packaging techniques and materials. You can find them at the Özerlat Café
on Arasta Street in the Old City.
Entertainment
Unlike the coastal resorts, the capital is buzzing pretty much all year
round. There are plenty of cool bars on Dereboyu in the evenings, and hip new
venues such as Ara Sokak in the Old City and Ghetto just outside. For live music, head to The
Doors Bar (formerly Sinema Nostalji) in Yeni Şehir.
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| Rooftop pool at the Golden Tulip |
Accommodation
The capital has two 5-star hotels: Golden Tulip, on the corner of
Dereboyu, and Merit Lefkoşa, on the
main city artery of Bedrettin Demirel Street. Both offer casinos, fine dining, swimming
pool and spa facilities. Those on a budget may prefer the 3-star hotel City
Royal Hotel.
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A very nice place to visit with the whole family. We'll be coming back for sure.
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